Let’s be honest—plant extracts in cosmetics often serve a purpose beyond actual performance. In fact, many brands rely on these ingredients as “claims” to tell a captivating story on the packaging, rather than for their proven efficacy. Sure, these extracts sound good in a marketing pitch, but the reality is that in most products, they’re present in such small amounts that they probably won’t deliver the benefits consumers expect.
The truth is, cosmetic formulators and marketers often don’t expect these small quantities of plant extracts to have any measurable impact on the performance of a product. They might look great on the ingredient list, but these ingredients typically don’t play a significant role in making the product effective. Instead, they often serve as eye-catching additions that help tell a story—think “natural” or “herbal”—rather than as active ingredients that are responsible for delivering results.
What Works: Promising Plant Extracts with Real Potential
While many plant extracts may not have the powerhouse effects advertised on skincare labels, there are certainly some with proven benefits. Research has shown that certain botanicals can indeed deliver results for specific skin concerns.
Here are a few plant extracts that show promising evidence of effectiveness:
Aloe Vera: We’ve all seen this one in skincare, and it’s well-known for its soothing and moisturizing properties. Aloe vera can help hydrate the skin, making it a good option for dry or irritated skin. While it might not be a miracle cure, its moisturizing benefits are definitely real and backed by research.
Tea Tree Oil: Famous for its acne-fighting properties, tea tree oil has been shown to have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. These properties can help reduce the bacteria and inflammation associated with acne. While the evidence isn't strong enough to make it a first-line acne treatment, tea tree oil can be a useful ingredient in your skincare routine for mild acne.
Licorice (Glycyrrhiza): Derived from the root of the licorice plant, this extract is gaining popularity in the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions like atopic dermatitis (eczema). Licorice is known for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, and research supports its potential to help with conditions like eczema, though more evidence is needed to make it a standard treatment.
Mahonia (Oregon Grape): This plant has shown promise in treating psoriasis, a chronic skin condition that causes redness, scaling, and inflammation. Mahonia has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects, which can help reduce the symptoms of psoriasis. However, like many botanicals, it’s still not widely used as a prescribed treatment.
Capsicum (Capsaicin): While it may seem surprising, capsaicin—the compound that makes chili peppers spicy—has been studied for its potential to help with psoriasis and other inflammatory skin conditions. Capsaicin can reduce pain and inflammation, though like Mahonia, it's not yet commonly prescribed for skin conditions.
The Limitations of Plant Extracts in Skincare Products
Despite the benefits that some plant extracts may offer, it’s important to remember that the amounts used in many skincare products are often too small to have a meaningful impact. Formulators may add these ingredients in minuscule concentrations, often to create a "natural" label or enhance the product’s appeal, but these tiny amounts typically don’t have the same therapeutic effect that you might find in a standalone, targeted treatment.
Additionally, while some botanicals have proven benefits, others might cause sensitivities or irritation in certain individuals. For example, tea tree oil and capsaicin can cause reactions in people with sensitive skin, and any new product containing these botanicals should be patch-tested first.
Final Thoughts: What Should You Look For?
As a consumer, it’s important to approach skincare products with a critical eye. While plant extracts can certainly offer benefits, they should not be the sole focus of your skincare routine. To truly see results, look for products that contain high concentrations of proven active ingredients—whether plant-based or synthetic—that have been backed by clinical research.
If you're drawn to natural skincare products, be mindful of the fact that many “natural” or “botanical” products may not deliver the immediate, dramatic results that you’re hoping for. That said, there are some plant extracts—like tea tree oil, aloe vera, and licorice—that have shown real promise for specific concerns like acne, dry skin, and inflammation.
In short, while plant extracts can contribute to your skincare routine, they may not be the miracle ingredients some marketers claim them to be. Be aware of what’s in your products and understand that for more complex skin issues, you may need something more potent than just a botanical extract.
What has your experience been with plant-based skincare products? Have any of them lived up to their promises?
I based this post on a clinical study found at https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20509719/ if you find any other relevant studies please let me know.
xxx Lyndall Innes Evolve Skin & Body Dianella Perth
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